WHERE the sea and sky meet between Maryport and Carlisle, is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty where wildlife and seashore birds greatly outnumber humans. Yet the intriguing Solway coast makes a superb area for families to sample.
But before setting off to explore, a quick (free) visit to the new Wild Solway information centre at the Lake District Coast Aquarium in Maryport is in order. As well as a taster to our coastal tour the centre is this summer hosting two exhibitions. One is by the Eden River Trust on the threat to our native crayfish from the imported American signal crayfish. And the second show is on shark and whale spotting. Cumbria Wildlife Trust are behind this exhibition showing 'The Hammonds. What Lies Beneath' An account of the life's work of two Cumbrians in recording marine life of the Solway Firth from the routine to the amazing world of sharks and whales that occasionally visit the Solway.
Soon after leaving Maryport the sunny 18 hole links of the Maryport golf club start the coastal scene. The club, which used to be private, is now open to the public, not only for golf but also for light refreshments. If you fancy a round of golf 2009 charges are £24 weekdays and £29 at weekends.
The quiet coastal road then calls in on Allonby, a gem of a village. Villagers tell me that one of the biggest attractions for those with young families is the large free seashore adventure playground, which is handily placed by free car parking and public toilets that were in tiptop cleanliness when our mystery shopper called.
Across from the seashore greens mine host at the busy Jack's Sports Bar is former Silloth lad, Peter Blake. When asked why Peter is manning Jack's Bar Peter admitted: "I am afraid I got to be called Jackanory because of all the tales I told the ladies!" Anyway the nickname stuck and for 15 years Peter has been serving meals and drinks to the holidaymakers calling in at Allonby.
The eight caravan sites in the Allonby area, including the Spring Lea leisure centre mean that the village gets a real summer buzz. Peter says that the seashore weather rules life along the Solway. "When the sun is out it is a must for families, but a windy winter's day send everyone back indoors! But we stay open come rain or shine."
The nearby Ship Inn boasts a blue plaque recording the visit in 1857of the two of the Victorian era's most famous storytellers, Charles Dickens and Wilkie Collins. Maybe Dickens left some notes in his room that might solve the great mystery of literature...how did he intend to end his thriller The Mystery of Edwin Drood. The book was unfinished at Dicken's sudden death in 1870.
We can answer one present mystery in Allonby. What happened to the large three storey brick building overlooking the Solway. Apparently the building was the former Reading Rooms and a couple from the USA decided it could be renovated to rival a Dubai apartment they also owned. But sadly the project has for the moment been halted.
The coastal winds along the Solway make the area increasingly popular with young kite surfers. At low tide clear expanses of sand mean the lightweight trolleys pulled by giant kite wings can zip along at great speed.
Heading further north we pass through a string of hamlets and also take the opportunity to visit the butterfly and reptiles house that features at Bank Mill Nurseries at Beckfoot. Nearby the Lowther Arms in Mawbray is hosting its first Real Ales Beer Fest on May 2-3 and 4th. With live music promised and session tickets costing £5.
Silloth is the largest town along the Solway and its broad streets hark back to the days when it aspired to be a quality Victorian resort. It mixes caravan parks, including the giant leisure pool facilities of Stanwix Park, with the more gentile charms that make the town popular as an up market retirement destination. Silloth is a gem of a resort that fortunately didn't become as popular as Blackpool or Morecambe. The newly refurbished Golf Hotel on the main frontage has now reopened providing two star accommodation. The town has a small amusement arcade and its own golf course. Sadly when I called on a sunny Monday in April not a single fish and chip shop appeared open...very disappointing for our roving explorer. Still the Solway Coast Discovery Centre was open and very friendly staff give information on the best things to see when exploring the coastal sand dunes and beaches. For instance out at Bowness Common keep your eyes open for sight of the rare Natterjack Toads in among the Marran grass.
Just inland from Silloth is Abbeytown and the red sandstone Holme Cultram Abbey. With a history stretching back to just after the Norman Conquest the abbey has always had its share of woes. Attacked several times by Scottish raiders the Abbey, which was double its present size, fell foul of Henry the VIII's monastery land grab. To make matter worse in 1536 Holme Cultram's abbot joined the Pilgrimage of Grace (a rebellion against Henry's VIII's seizure of church properties) with severe consequences to the abbey. Its monks were ordered to leave, and its land came to the crown. All that was left was what we see today as a parish church for the area.
But even in this century the Cistercian abbey has had its woes. In 2006 a Silloth youth set the church alight and terrible damage was caused. Now in 2009 the church roof has been restored and stonemasons are hard at work restoring much of the beauty of the historic building.
From an article published in Themaryportguide 2009