Shipbuilding in Whitehaven
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AS Whitehaven
grew from a humble fishing hamlet
to a major coal exporting
port in the 17th century it also developed its own shipbuilding
industry. Listing of Whitehaven shipping 1811 |
ONE
historical association with the town's
shipbuilding is the Vicar of Bray. This 281 tonne bark was launched
at Whitehaven in 1841. She was only 121 feet long and 24 foot
wide yet after an early life as collier. In the 1849 Californian
Gold Rush she joined the armada of ships rushing to San Francisco.
She was carrying mercury, and essential ingredient in the processing
of gold.
Here she narrowly escaped the fate of many ships who's crews ran
off to the goldfields. The Vicar of Bray was able to get a skeleton
crew and returned to her sailings. Her skipper, Cpt Charles Duggan
was only able to do this by offering 'gold rush wages' of $80
a month, compared with the captain's own $50.
In Lloyds register her sailing career ended in 1880 when she became
what she still is today, a hulk in the Falkland Islands. But such
is her part in the Gold Rush that in 1979 the US National Park
Service described the hulk as "one of the most important
artifacts of US history.''
SHE was the ship that put the final coffin in Whitehavens
once thriving shipbuilding industry. The Alice A Leigh was the
biggest ship built at Whitehaven, and it was when her 3000 tons
refused to slip gracefully into the sea that the problems hit
the Whitehaven Shipbuilding Company.
But the ship, now a tourist attraction as a shipwreck in New Zealand,
has led a Yorkshire woman on a search that is taking her around
the world.
Sally Greers great grandfather was the ships captain
from 1900-1918. And old family photographs led her to uncover
a story of high seas drama. Uncovering the old ships logs
in the Kew Public Records and in Whitehavens Archives have
pieced together the ships story. Recently Sally Greer was
in Whitehaven with her father to see the shipyard site that started
the entire saga. Alice A Leigh was a 4 masted steel barque. She
was launched Oct 1889, being built by the Whitehaven Shipbuilding
Company. Recalled Sally: When she failed to launch properly
it cost the company a further £1400, to free her which made
the company go bust. She cost £26000 to be built. My Great
Grandfather was her Captain from 1900-1917. (Cpt Allan Davison).
He took his wife Hannah to sea with him and all 6 children
were born at various ports/at sea. (2 died, 1 was actually buried
at sea).
The ship had an eventful life nearly being sunk by a German sub
in 1914 only to be saved at the last minute as a French destroyer
appeared on the horizon.
On another occasion the Alice A Leigh had to sail through the
centre of a typhoon. This demasted the barque.
She was sold first in 1917 to New York & Pacific SS
Co and then in 1921 sold again and renamed REWA, converted to
an oil barge and in 1930 was sunk at Moturekareka Is (Harauki
Gulf) New Zealand as a breakwater. She is still there to this
day. Local boat companies run day trips to see her. Calling her
the 'Pirate ship'.
Sally who now works in a home for the elderly in Catterick said:
Having found that the Alice A Leighs final resting
place was in New Zealand I decided I should go out to see her.
I have heard so many of the
residents at the home say they wish they had done certain things
in their lives, but have left it too late. That made me realise
you have to do what your heart tells you to do!.

The Clearway
The steam dredger Clearway was a well known character in Whithaven
harbour for some 70 years. She dregded up the silt that tides
kept washing into the harbour mouth. Built in Aberdeen in 1926
she came to Haven a year later.She was one of the last coal fired
steam dredgers in Europe. In 1992 her triple expansion reciprocating
steam engine was mothballed as the days of phosphate roack cargoes
into the port had stopped.
Regrettably despite strenous efforts by the Harbour Master Dave
Allan no preservation society could be found to take on the Clearway.
in 1998 a crowd of wellwishers saw the boat off as she was towed
to Millom for scrap. A Norwegian society renovating a 1908 fjord
steamer the Oster have bought the engines and in 2000 summer started
sea trials at Bergen. Find
out more on the Clearway, plus picture.
Sea Jade
A Whitehaven built schooner came back to town
for a recent visit. The fascinating storu of the Sea Jaed follows:
She was a wooden schooner that was rescued from the mud at the
bottom of Whitehaven harbour for the princely sum of £5.
In August 2001 she was all set to sail off to the Greek island
of Corfu.
The three masted Sea Jade was back in port on crewed by eccentric
66 year old salty seadog, John Victor Grierson.
John recalls the day 15 years ago that the Harbour Commission's
Mr Moffat asked him to dispose of the sunken wreck. *She had laid
in the mud for four years and as I am a registered wreck recoverer,
they asked if I could dispose of her. I paid £5 for her
and got her free from the silt alongside Whitehaven slipway and
off to Barrow where after 15 years slog I have made her seaworthy
once again.** John gained his wreck recovery licence through his
knowledge of using demolition charges. One of his past contracts
was the successful dynamiting of the French wreck, the Michelle
Jane which was causing problems for submarines using the Walney
Channel.
The Sea Jade has two jibs and a mainsail and when John and crewman
Hugh Taylor, from Swarthmoor, Ulverston, sailed her to Whitehaven
from the Isle of Man on Sunday: *Every sail was set and the engine
running and we made over 11 knots in speed.**
On a web site created by Hugh he describes John as *Barrow*s Fred
Dibnah* Among the other projects John described as his *Toys and
Projects* include owning a Centurian tank and reconditioning the
huge engine from a Bristol Hercules aircraft before selling it
on to a museum. To see more about the fascinating man and his
projects go to http://users.iclway.co.uk/hugetay/Early%20days.htm
Asked about his plan to sail the Sea Jade to Corfu John said:
*I am going to Corfu to live on Sea Jade. I fell in love with
the place on a visit. It may be everyone's ambition, but I am
doing it."
Another less inspiring visit by a sailing vessel was the sad tale
of the Ellan Vannin. DREAMS of a sail training schooner for Whitehaven
were dashed,when the old vessel came free from its moorings and
sailed out to sea without a soul on board. As harbourmaster Neil
Foskett and HM Coastguards teams looked on, the twin-masted schooner,
Ellan Vannin first had to be fended off the North Wall of the
port before she drifted, under heaving seas, onto the beach at
Whitey Rock, between Whitehaven and Parton.
Looking like the Mary Celeste the old sailing vessel had slowly
drifted to her doom. She had torn herself free of her moorings
as she was tied
up and left unattended alongside the Sea Cadets base the TS Bee.
Among those watching the drama unfold were young people from the
West Cumbrian NACRO team who had been intending to start work
that very day. The NACRO team leader, Michael Cullum said he was
heartbroken to see the ship founder. Whitehaven Harbour staff
tried desperately to contact the ship's owner, Tommy Doyle, at
the time. Steve Cross, spokesman for HM Coastguard, said: "The
ship apparently broke its moorings at lunchtime. "A team
of coastguards from Whitehaven went out to the ship to make sure
no-one was on board.
"They were intending to try and pull it back, but it was
too badly damaged and could not be saved."
The old schooner, was named after a tragic steamer that sank in
Liverpool Bay in 1909 claiming many lives.
Keeping an eye on the situation, on Thursday, Harbourmaster Mr
Foskett told the Workington lifeboat, which had scrambled, to
stand down, as there was no threat to life or shipping. Mr Foskett
said: "Nobody was attending or manning the vessel as we had
asked them to do. On the Monday we advised it was not a good week
to take her out for the planned repairs. But he (Mr Doyle) said
he would take the risk.
"I advised him that if he wished to do that the ship must
categorically be manned during each and every subsequent tide
as she
re-floated to attend to lines and fendering. This advice was clearly
ignored as was discovered at the time. On subsequent inspection
of the
remaining mooring lines they were found to be in a very poor condition.
We have the remnants of the lines in storage. Conditions at the
berth
were fair at the time of failure."
She has now been broken up by the tides and a salvage company
will
shortly be clearing her remains from the Irish Sea.
The Wordsworth connection.
A Television film about the exploration by divers of a shipwreck
has re-awakened interest in a Whitehaven sea captain and the tragic
death of the brother to the famous William Wordsworth.
AN ADVERT appeared in the Cumberland Pacquet in April 1789: Wanted
for a new ship of 1,200 tons, in the service of the Honourable
Company of Merchants of England trading to the East Indies, 30
young and able-bodied seamen who can produce certificates ...
apply Captain Wordsworth, Scotch Street, Whitehaven.
This was inserted by John Wordsworth, cousin of the poet William,
who was born at Whitehaven in 1754.
Through the influence of George Robinson (a favourite of George
III), one-time MP for Westmorland and agent for the Earl of Lonsdale,
John was made commander of the largest ship in the East India
Company fleet, the Earl of Abergavenny, launched at Harwich in
1789. Needing a large crew, John drew from a wide area, preferring
Cumbrians who he would know and trust, hence the advert in a local
newspaper.
One of the crew on the 18-month maiden voyage to India and China
was another John Wordsworth, born in 1772 at Cockermouth and a
younger brother of the poet, joining the ship on January 3, 1790.
This was an eventful voyage, the Pacquet reporting in July 1791:
Captain Wordsworth, of this town, had lately the honour
of receiving and entertaining on board his ship, the Earl of Abergavenny,
at Canton, the Emperor of China with a very numerous retinue.
The East India Company was then extending links with China and
the crew were out to impress.
Documents in Cumbria Record Office in Carlisle show that the vessel
was bringing back to this country cotton, tea and silver as part
of a general cargo.
When the Abergavenny returned on August 19, 1791, Dorothy Wordsworth,
Johns sister, was told: He is grown a very tall handsome
man.
Whenever possible between voyages, John visited both William and
Dorothy in the Lake District, the last time in 1800.
Sailing at first as a fifth mate, John Wordsworth rose through
the ranks very rapidly, and again with the help of George Robinson,
replaced his cousin as captain of the Abergavenny when John senior
resigned on January 2, 1801.
Before Abergavennys fifth voyage to Bengal and China, John
wrote to his brother William on January 24, 1805: In ships
company we have 200, and soldiers and passengers 200 more, amounting
all together to 400 so that I shall have sufficient employment
on my hands to keep all these people in order.
Although he detested writing letters, John sent a last letter
to his brother Christopher on January 31: We are at Portsmouth
and expect to sail tomorrow, wind and weather permitting.
Forced close to the coast in poor weather on February 5, the ship
struck the notorious Shambles bank off Portland Bill.
The bank was finally cleared and the crew attempted to sail for
Weymouth Bay, but the hull was so badly damaged that the Abergavenny
sank within sight of land.
Almost 300 perished, along with the captain.
The Pacquet said: At the moment the ship was going down,
Captain Wordsworth was seen clinging to the ropes. Mr Gilpin,
one of the mates, used every persuasion to induce him to save
his life but all in vain he did not seem desirous to survive
the loss of his ship.
All blame for the wreck was placed on an incompetent pilot and
the captain absolved.
William Wordsworth wrote from Dove Cottage to Sir George Beaumont
on February 11: This calamitous news we received at 2 oclock...
my poor sister and wife are in miserable affliction which I do
all in my power to alleviate, but heaven knows I want consolation
myself.
It was not until March 20 that John Wordsworths body was
found on the beach near Weymouth and the Gentlemens Magazine
reported it was the next day conveyed in a hearse to the
parish church of Wyke-Regis, followed by a great number of the
principal inhabitants of Weymouth and there interred.
His sword was retrieved from the wreck and is still in the Wordsworth
family possession.
One of those who survived the disaster was John Routledge of Stapleton
who was on his way back to India as an employee of the East India
Company.
Another Cumbrian saved was the third mate and cousin of the captain,
Joseph Wordsworth, who was sent ashore in a boat with other seamen
to get help.
Interest in the wreck of the Abergavenny and its valuable cargo
has prompted diving by the Weymouth Underwater Archaeological
Group and the ship and the recovery of artifacts has been the
subject of a recent television programme.
Possible other sources:
Shepherd and Leech ship yard - website appears closed sadly guide
to shipbuilding in West Cumbria
More information from excellent research by Steve Bulman about
Whitehaven shipping.
Historic
Listing of Whitehaven vessels.
Britain's nautical
history - National Maritime Museum
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